Le Bernardin

Nearly everything here is in service of balance — between simplicity and refinement, French foundation and global reach — and Chef Eric Ripert has held that line for over three decades. The menu tells you the philosophy before the food does: it's divided into Almost Raw, Barely Touched, and Lightly Cooked, an entire worldview about not getting in the seafood's way. There's a generous à la carte rather than a forced march through a tasting menu, which makes it the rare room at this level you can drop into on your own terms. Three Michelin stars and a regular on the World's 50 Best. Dress up — everyone else will have.