Asador Etxebarri

People make a genuine pilgrimage out to this restored country house at the foot of Mt Anboto, and it's all for one thing: Chef Bittor Arginzoniz's mastery of fire. He cooks over different woods, on grills and pulleys he built himself, with a control over flame that's reshaped how a whole generation of cooks thinks about grilling. Everything's been kissed by it — Palamós prawns, his own chorizo, the legendary aged beef chop, even the milk ice cream with beetroot at the end. The room is proudly plain; the cooking does all the talking. One Michelin star and a World's 50 Best regular, about an hour out of Bilbao. Book months ahead — it's worth the wait and then some.