APONIENTE

They call Chef Ángel León the Chef of the Sea, and he's earned it: working from a centuries-old tide mill on the marshes outside Cádiz, he's spent over a decade cooking almost entirely from the ocean, and he's the one who introduced edible plankton to fine dining. The meal starts outside, on wooden walkways through recovered estuaries where some of the ingredients are gathered. Inside, the tasting menu runs on things most kitchens discard or never consider — marine "sausages," plankton, lesser-known fish — and even the desserts come from the sea. It was Andalucía's first three-Michelin-star restaurant and holds one of the first-ever Michelin Green Stars for sustainability. Worth the detour into the marshes.