Christopher Coutanceau

The sign out front reads "Christopher Coutanceau, chef and fisherman," and that about sums it up. Chef Coutanceau grew up fishing these waters and now runs his family's restaurant on La Concurrence beach with partner Nicolas Brossard, building the menu each morning around the local catch and the ocean's own seasons. He's one of the most committed sustainability voices in French cooking — he won the Michelin Guide's first sustainable-gastronomy prize and refuses endangered or spawning species — and he makes a humble sardine sing as readily as turbot or sea urchin. The restaurant earned three Michelin stars in 2020, lost the third in 2023, and won it back in 2025. Look for the seasonal scallop pithiviers. As fresh and briny as a gust off the Atlantic.