Saint-Méloir-des-Ondes
Le Coquillage
Why we point you here
On a Breton headland over the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel, a former merchant-navy sailor turned his family's seafood spot into one of France's most poetic three-star tables.
Hugo Roellinger spent his first life at sea before following his father Olivier — himself a former three-star chef and now a renowned spice merchant — into the kitchen at Château Richeux. He took over Le Coquillage in 2014, dropped meat from the menu in 2017, and in 2025 earned a third Michelin star to go with the Green Star he'd already held for sustainability. The single set menu, "Au gré du vent et de la lune" (at the whim of the wind and the moon), is built almost entirely from the sea and the surrounding land: spider crab with wild herbs and a slow-cooked egg yolk, raw scallop under sea-anemone, Breton blue lobster served two ways, all threaded with the family's beloved spices and seaweed. The dishes carry dreamlike names and arrive on plates made from local beach clay. It's a genuine 2.5-hour journey from Paris — and the kind that rewards every minute.