Kohaku

Koji Koizumi spent nine years as Hideki Ishikawa's right hand before opening Kohaku in the same Kagurazaka alley, and in 2016 he earned a third Michelin star at thirty-six — the youngest chef in Japan to do it. His kaiseki keeps the classical bones — dashi, seasonal logic, a different menu every visit — but slips in ingredients tradition would never touch: truffle, caviar, foie gras, star anise. Find it behind a façade of tightly aligned bamboo and a painted white tiger (the kanji of the name). The counter is effectively always sold out, so the private room is your realistic way in. Three Michelin stars, and one of Tokyo's more genuinely surprising rooms at this level.